Balkans Route
A journey through the Balkans has always been on my bucket list. This area is known for being less touristic and cheaper than mainstream/western Europe so that was a big draw for me. I knew this summer a lot of people were going to swarm over to countries like Italy now that everything is open, post covid. I was not going to be caught in those kind of crowds and forced to pay extremely high prices. If you missed it, I went to Italy pre high season this year and had so much fun, while not having to break the bank. If you missed my Italy reels and route prior to this Balkans one, check out my content on my IG @alexamcdonald.
If you love charming small cities, cultural diversity, stunning beaches, and amazing hikes, you’re going to love the Balkans. Make sure you add these places to your want to go list before it gets even more discovered!
This is the 4 week route my sister and I took in June/July of 2023. We visited 7 countries: Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia, Albania, and Greece. This itinerary felt a bit rushed in our opinion, although I have heard of people traveling even faster. Your soon going to realize how many places you’ll want to go to! Regarding the timeline, I have added tips under the places I think need more or less time.
Details on the length of stay, transportation, accommodation recs, restaurant recs, must-see recs, attraction recs, things to do recs/highlights, best beaches, and more are below!
Be sure to check my Instagram @alexamcdonald to see moments in this article come alive! As always, DM or email me if you have any questions.
How to get around
We decided to navigate the Balkans by bus and found it to be fairly easy. It's worth noting that reliable online schedules for certain countries may not always be available, so don’t be afraid to ask the locals or your accomodation! This was definitely the case for Kosovo and Albania. We used various online websites to check for schedules including GetMyBus, FlixBus, Senad Tours (GetMyBus), and the local Albanian buses (time and location given by locals).
Tip: Carrying 1 euro coins is helpful for Croatia and Montenegro, as certain buses have a luggage fee.
A FOUR WEEK BALKANS ITINERARY
Day 1 - 3 | Split, Croatia
Split was the first stop on this itinerary. Having been there before, it felt great to be back walking around the charming cobblestone streets and playing in the Adriatic Sea.
Tip: Extend your trip a few days more to allow for exploration of the many islands outside of Split and day trip to Krka National Park.
Accommodation:
I don’t recommend the accomodation we stayed at but can recommend to stay in Old Town or somewhere close. Thankfully, the city is very walkable! If you know the dates you are going to Split, I recommend booking ahead of time as last minute places can we very expensive. Accommodation was the most expensive here and in Dubrovnik.
Food/Drink Spots:
- Articok (beautiful spot for rooftop dinner)
- Old House Street Food (quick fast food)
- Feel Green (great healthy spot for lunch)
- MoNIKa’s Wine Bar (self-explanatory, fun bartender)
- Sladoledarnica Emiliana (amazing gelato, usually a long line)
Highlight:
Split Party Boat with @outtoseasplit: If dancing and having a good time out on the water is your vibe, this party boat is a must when you are in Split. You get to explore the coastal views and its a great way to meet people.
They were kind enough to give me a code for you to get 10% off. The code is Alexam. Book on their website here.
Day 4 | Mostar
Mostar is an incredibly charming little town. The old town has a quaint yet unique atmosphere as there is a mix of cultures there. Don’t miss the chance to dine at one of the many restaurants on the cliffs, where you might even catch the sight of someone jumping off the famous bridge. We never saw anyone jump but there are guys on the bridge ready to jump if you pay them. At least that’s how I think it works.
Accomodation:
We stayed at this amazing airbnb that was in a perfect location and walking distance to old town. The host was really nice and helpful. I highly recommend getting the breakfast from her!
Food/Drink Spots:
- Tima - Irma (best spot for lunch or dinner)
- Hindin Han (relaxing restaurant on the river that has delicious desserts)
- Karma (beautiful spot on the river for coffee)
Highlight:
- Eating at Tima - Irma. The portions are MASSIVE and the food is INCREDIBLE. Must try!
Day 5-7 | Dubrovnik, Croatia
This city was surprising in so many ways. I really enjoyed the views from old town. There’s also so many beautiful beaches and places to swim near the center of town. Check out my Instagram for recs on all of my favorite beaches!
Tip: Extend your trip one or two days to allow yourself time to explore more beaches and to stay at some for a longer amount of time. Sometimes we were only at a beach for an hour which is not enough time!
Accommodation:
Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik (we were with a friend of my sister’s and they were kind enough to book a night with their points).
Food/Drink Spots:
- Ala Mizerija (see below)
- Buza Bar (great spot for a sunset drink)
- Holy Burek (popular street food)
Beaches:
- Beach Sulic: It gets busy during the day but the vibe here is great and it is very picturesque. There is a small sand area so you will most likely will have to layout on pavement somewhere. There's 2 places to eat right above the beach (one of them listed below).
- Buza bar: This is technically not a beach but along with sunset drinks, you can swim in the water and cliff jump. It gets busy but the vibe here is great too. There are lots of young people.
- Dance Beach: This is a rocky beach that I highly recommend to go to in the morning. It is very quiet and peaceful and has a lots of space to lay down. The swimming area is perfect. We only went in the morning so I am not sure how it gets in the afternoon but we experienced very chill vibes and absolutely loved it.
- Plaza Banje: The views above this beach are my favorite part. The coastline will continue to unveil its beauty as you continue walking along this path. This is the most crowded beach in Dubrovnik.
- Beach Sunj: After arriving by boat to the island, Lopud, you can either take golf cart here or walk a bit. It is a long open sandy beach. The water was amazing and you can swim out really far to some coves. I am pretty sure the end of this beach was a nude beach. I loved this place and wished I could’ve stayed longer! This was a part of the Elaphite Islands Boat Tour below.
Highlights:
Ala Mizerija: During the day, the area is packed with people who are looking for a picturesque place to lay out and swim. Yet, in the late afternoon around sunset, the spot clears out and becomes a quiet cove where you can enjoy a serene dinner and peaceful swim time.
Elaphite Islands Boat Tour: I highly recommend this boat tour where you get to explore islands of Lopud, Sipan, and Kolocep. You get to see the beautiful coast of Croatia, explore and relax on the pristine beaches of 3 islands and have a delicious fish lunch. Not to mention there is also unlimited wine all day (if that interests you).
Lots of my Croatia content is on my Instagram @alexamcdonald.
Day 8 - 9 | Montenegro (Budva, Kotor and more)
Montenegro is a breathe-taking and underrated country. It has gorgeous mountains that meet crystal-clear sea and make a stunning backdrop in all of the coastal towns. We ended up deciding to base ourselves in Budva for three nights. Unfortunately, I thought 3 nights was too many for Budva and would have better enjoyed staying in a more quiet and small town (despite my usual preference to avoid one night stays - but this time it would have been worth it).
Getting there: The bay of Kotor and surrounding areas are beautiful (tip: sit on the right side of the bus if you are coming from Dubrovnik).
The Budva old town, however, is a classic Balkans town and has many cute and delicious places for food and drinks. One of the day trips we took from Budva was to Kotor and we loved it so much that we wished we would’ve spent the night there. The old town there was also incredibly charming but my favorite thing to do was… hiking to a cheese shop! My instagram reel of this, watch here!
Another day trip idea is to go on a 2 hour walk from Budva to Sveti Stefan called the Seven Bay Trail (there are many step by step guides online). As the name implies, you will see 7 bays but the views along the way are well worth your time. It is a great way to enjoy the coastal gems of Montenegro and you can stop at any beach as you please.
With the information I have now, I would recommend spending two nights in Kotor (take time to enjoy the surrounding towns as well), one night in Budva, and 2 or 3 nights in another small beach town. There are buses that can take you to places all along the coast so it is easy to travel around.
Accommodation:
Airbnb - This airbnb is cheap and is well located in old town. It is located right above a fresh homemade pasta place which we loved.
Food/Drink Spots Budva:
- Jadran (seafood restaurant on the water)
- Casper Bar (cute place to grab a drink)
- La Mia Pasta (fresh homemade pasta)
- Old Fisherman’s Pub (busy place to grab a drink and listen to live music)
Highlights:
- Seven Bay Trail: This tranquil trail will lead you to so many beaches you will lose count. The coastline will continuously give you views of pristine beaches and hidden coves. Tip: If you are too tired after a long day of walking and relaxing at these beaches you can always take the local bus back to Budva from Sveti Stefan!
- Hike to a cheese shop in Kotor: This hike was gorgeous and meal at the cheese shop was such a unique thing to do and great way to support a local. Check out this instagram reel for more details!
- Sveti Stefan: Sveti Stefan is a must for your Montenegro itinerary. It is a remarkable place to enjoy the beauty of architecture and nature at the same time. Tip: If you have time then meander over to Milocer and Queen’s beach for more beautiful beaches.
Day 10 - 13 | Shkoder, Valbona, Theth (Albania)
One of the most memorable experiences this trip was the hike from Valbona to Theth. The beauty is indescribable and even though I have never been to the Swiss Alps I can only imagine that this is as equally breathe-taking. The details to planning the hike are very straight forward and I enjoyed every second of the journey.
Here was our itinerary:
Arrive in Shkoder and stay at Wanderer's Hostel. Their team is extremely helpful and will hold your bags while you are on the hike, and book your transportation and accommodation (if you want). We decided to book our own guesthouses in both towns along the hike though.
The first day is a travel day that starts with an early shuttle, ferry (with beautiful views) and then another shuttle to get to the starting point, Valbona. We stayed at Hotel Margjeka and the views were incredible there. I definetly recommend.
*Tip: Buy a packed lunch from them for your hike the next morning.
The next morning you'll start the hike and make your way to Theth. The journey is around 10 miles depending on where you start. We ended up getting caught in a rain/hail storm but we were able to wait it out at one of the cafes on the trail and it passed quickly. The views along the way are gorgeous so make frequent stops to take it all in! You will arrive in Theth in the afternoon and can enjoy the views in that valley while you rest. That night, we stayed at Molla Guesthouse (it is ran by a super sweet family who we became friends with). Enjoy the rest of your day and take in the views (or even help the grandma milk the cow like we did haha). Watch this reel to catch a glimpse of our stays there!
The next day take a shuttle back to Shkoder or even stay another night so that you can hike the Blue Hole. I wish we booked a few more nights to relax at both of these hotels. Top tip would be that I recommended adding more nights!!!
Day 14 - 15 | Pristina, Kosovo
If you have the time, add Pristina to your Balkans itinerary. You only need a day or two but this surprising city is packed with amazing culture, a vibrant fashion scene and streets lined with charming cafes. The most popular thing to do there is see the National Library (you will see why). You will have plenty of time to unwind, so take some time to settle in at one of these colorful cafes and join the locals in the art of people-watching. Check out my instagram story highlights for more!
Accommodation:
Oda Hostel
Food and Drink Spots:
- Liburnia (traditional restaurant with unique decor)
- Green & Protein (healthy spot for tasty bowls)
- Matcha Coffee and Eatery (cute cafe)
- SONDER (my favorite breakfast place)
Day 16 - 17 | Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia
If you need the perfect place to rest and recharge then Lake Ohrid is the perfect spot. Spend your time strolling around town, walking along the water and watching the sunset up on a cliff.
Accommodation:
We loved this airbnb. It is in the perfect location and was a great place to finally cook some meals!
Food/Drink Spots:
- Kaj Kanevche: While we did cook most of our meals, we did treat ourselves to some traditional food at this restaurant. It is located on the water and if you can, reserve the lone table out on the dock! It is an ideal spot to satisfy your sight and taste, as the views are serene and food is equally delightful.
Highlights:
- Ohrid Boardwalk: Stroll along this picturesque path for sunset. I loved taking in the views of the expansive lake and taking time to reflect on my incredible Balkans experience thus far.
Day 18 - 19 | Himare, Albania
Himare is a charming little town on the beautiful Albanian coastline. It has a very chill ambiance that makes you want to lay on the beach, stroll around town, and do absolutely nothing else. It is perfectly situated so that you can access many nearby beaches (by boat). Beach-hopping was my favorite thing we did here. We went with this company and had a great time.
Tip: There are a few towns north of here that I would recommend looking into and staying at. I think you could easily spend at least 4 days in this area exploring the beaches and other towns!
Accommodation:
Margarita Guesthouse
The views from this guesthouse are perfect and the woman who owns it is so sweet and helpful. She made us love Himare. I highly recommend!
Highlight:
Boat Tour: This was an easy way to explore the coastline and visit various beaches. My favorite was Pigeon’s Cave. Book your tour with this company.
Day 20 - 22 | Sarande
Sarande is not the best town in my opinion and unfortunately the beach is not the best as well... but ... we did really enjoy meeting a few locals and going on a boat to beaches outside of Sarande. This is why I still suggest visiting. It's also where the ferry to Corfu, Greece is and this is where we were going after (spoiler). Overall, the coast line near Sarande is so beautiful and way less touristy than your average European beaches therefore it's still worth visiting!
Tip: Add more days to Himare and the surrounding towns and then stay in Sarande to do more boat tours, a day trip to Ksamil (we didn’t have time and also heard it was more expensive) and then ferry to Corfu.
Day 23 - 28 | Corfu, Greece
I quickly found out that Greece is a magical country. The food, people, beaches, and memories I have of this place are unforgettable. From the first taste of halloumi in Greece, I knew I was going to love this place (lol). I spent my time in Corfu town, Paleokastrista and Agios Georgios. Corfu old town has a very special vibe even with its very touristic nature. Strolling around old town never got old and there is no shortage of amazing restaurants be sure to check out my favorites below!). Agios Georgios is home to the Greek family that adopted me for a few days. Watch this wholesome reel to see how it all happened. It is a very special and heartwarming place for me after months and months of travel. Some home cooked meals and lots of hugs were much needed. Check out my Instagram for more details on all of the unforgettable places I went to.
Accommodation:
Airbnb: The location in the heart of old town.
Food/Drink Spots:
- To Tsipouradiko (Incredible Greek style tapas and my favorite, halloumi with blackberry jam)
- Alatopipero (Incredible Greek style tapas)
- Dairy Shop of Alexis (delicious rice pudding and Galatompoureko)
Transportation: The green line bus has routes all over Corfu. Check online for times and routes. Add as many days as you can to explore the entire island!!
Highlights:
- Drive your own boat in Paleokastrista: Yes, you read that right. You can drive a boat here without a license. It was very easy and the best way to explore all of the coast and beaches near Paleokastrista.
